MILAN IS A MECCA OF MUSIC

La Scala

La Scala has been a musical Mecca since it opened in 1778 on the site of a ruined church called Santa Maria alla Scala. The world's greatest artists have appeared here before an audience so famously expressive, it even dared to hiss the legendary Maria Callas during a performance of Medea. She quick-wittedly screamed the next words of the libretto directly across the footlights – 'Oh cruel! Haven't I given you everything?' – and earned a prolonged ovation. In the 18th century, a horseshoe-shaped hall was thought to offer the best acoustics. Sight lines were not a consideration because audiences came to the opera principally to see and be seen. When, in 2001, La Scala closed for three years for extensive renovation the already excellent acoustics were improved but nothing could be done about the sight lines. Views from many seats at La Scala, even expensive ones, are restricted and some offer no glimpse of the stage at all. Today, La Scala's website offers a virtual view from each seat so that online ticket buyers at least, can avoid surprises. The premiere of the ballet, Onegin, choreographed by John Cranko to music by Tchaikovsky, opens at La Scala on September 7th, with performances at 20:00 from 10 to 18 September. Tickets go on sale online from 9:00 on 28 June. The production stars the acclaimed Italian ballet dancer, Robert Bolle. You'll find a calendar of performances and online booking facilities at www.teatroallascala.org.

Behind the scenes

If you love not only music of the opera but the costumes and sets as well, you'll want to take the tour of the Ansaldo workshops at Via Bergognone, 34. A specialist will guide you on a visit to the set design workshops and the areas devoted to costumes – their creation, fitting, maintenance and storage. More than 60,000 garments belonging to over 280 productions are warehoused over a 1,400 square metre area. You'll also see the two practice rooms. One is for the chorus and the other, the same size as the theatre's stage, is where directors set up their first movements for new productions. Tours are on Tuesday and Thursday at 15:00 for individuals. Tickets costs €5. Booking is obligatory. Contact CIVITA at telephone +39.02.4335.3521 or by e-mail at servizi@ civita.it.

Theatre museum

An eclectic collection of memorabilia bequeathed to La Scala in 1952 by the writer and opera enthusiast Giulio Sambon is displayed here in an intimate setting. The entrance to La Scala museum is to the left of the theatre building There are two floors of exquisite musical instruments, including the first spinet owned by Verdi, busts, statuettes and portraits of famous musicians and actors, theatre costumes, and a 40,000-volume theatrical library. It is also home to a variety of curiosities like Verdi's funeral mask, Puccini's watch, a lock of Mozart's hair, and a cast of Chopin's hand. When the stage of La Scala is not in use for rehearsals, you can enter a theatre box directly from the museum for a view of the theatre's gilded interior. A sign posted next to the entrance to the museum announces whether or not such a view is possible on the day. The museum is open daily, with some exceptions. Opening hours are from 9:00 to 12:30, with the last entrance at 12:00 and from 13:30 to 17:30, with the last afternoon entrance at 17:00.

Music in the ari

In Milan in September, music comes out to meet you. There's music in metro stations, in the streets, in piazzas, in parks, and in churches. Some of Milan's most spectacular venues open their doors to performances. This year, the annual event, MiTo SeptembreMusica, begins in Milan on 6 September with a concert by the National Orchestra of France at La Scala. The name 'MiTo' is derived from the names of the two cities that celebrate the festival simultaneously: Milano and Torino. Music of every genre – from classical to rock – is on the programme, with four to five events daily featuring international artists and groups. Each year, the musical spotlight falls on a different country whose music becomes a mini-festival within the larger one. Exhibitions, discussion panels and film screenings round out the schedule. The programme is available online from 6 June at www.mitosettembremusica.it. Delegates to the ESCRS congresses in Milan who show their badge when purchasing a ticket at the MITO SettembreMusica box office may avail of a special 10 per cent discount (not applicable on €5 concerts). The box office is located at MiTo's Milan Urban Centre, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 11/12. Tel. +39.02.8846.4725.

Blue Note

The first European franchise of the Greenwich Village jazz club, 'Blue Note,' opened in Milan a few years ago and has been attracting international artists in blues, soul and jazz ever since. James Taylor, James Pizzarelli and Randy Becker figured in the Blue Note line-up earlier this year. Performances are about 75 minutes long. A candle-lit meal (with main courses costing €25 to €30) is served before the 21:00 show. For those who are dining at the venue, doors open at 19:30. A light snack menu is also available before the late session. The club is closed Monday and throughout the months of June, July and August. Ticket prices vary with the artist, but can be booked online. To discover who's appearing when, check the calendar at the Blue Note website at: www.bluenotemilano.com.