ESSENCE OF ISTANBUL

Metro to Asia

It’s a purely Istanbul experience... hop on a metro in Europe and find yourself in Asia 19 minutes later. Marmaray, the Number 5 metro line, runs for one-and-a-half kilometres of its journey through a tunnel bored under the Bosphorus. The metro supplements the crowded bridges and ferries that link the two continents. The line was finally inaugurated, after a nine-year delay, in 2013; the tunnel diggers turned up hundreds of thousands of archaeological finds including the submerged remains of 36 Byzantine ships. (A new museum will be built to house the artefacts.) In Uskudar, on the Asian side, the gigantic mosque,Yeni Valide Camii, is inland from the harbour. Explore the streets behind this mosque and you’ll find a covered market plus the colourful Kite Museum. Admission free... Open 9-5, closed Sundays.

Bargain in a market

Every week 200 markets display their wares in Istanbul. The oldest and biggest is the Grand Bazaar which has been doing business since the15th century. Go for the atmosphere and the photo opportunities that are everywhere along its 58 covered streets.You might even spot a bargain. Open 09:00 to 19:00 but closed Sundays. The smaller Egyptian market (also called the Spice Market) is open every weekday 09:00 to 19:00 as well as Sundays from 10:00-18:00. Ozer, Stall 82 in the Spice Market, is a well-regarded antique and textile shop. It specialises in hand-woven silk scarves and restored antique clothes for women.

Marvel at a mosque

So many mosques (over 3,000), so little time. Which to see? How about the mosque of Suleymaniye the Magnificent. It’s the iconic mosque on Istanbul’s skyline. It reopened in November 2010 after three years of refurbishment. Some say it is the most beautiful mosque in Istanbul; it is the largest. Built in the 16th century, it is lighter and less ornate than many of its contemporaries and has a peaceful atmosphere all its own. It’s within walking distance of the Spice Market. Visitors welcome except during prayers.

Have a hamam

Turkish baths, hamams, are world famous. Traditionally, men and women bath separately. An exception, and therefore popular with tourists, is the 16th century Suleymaniye Baths next to the Suleymaniye Mosque. Couples and families only. Singles might try the utterly luxurious Kilcali Ali Pasa hamami. It reopened in 2012 after seven years of meticulous restoration. Make a booking, read a guide to the process and acquaint yourself with hamam etiquette on the hamam’s website: www.kilicalipasahamami.com or
www.suleymaniyehamami.com.