BUON APPETITO FROM MILAN

Milan’s golden cuisine

The term ‘golden cuisine’ may refer to the 14th century custom of sprinkling food with gold leaf or maybe it suggests the colour of the cuisine's traditional ingredients – butter, cheese, saffron and cornmeal. The term does not refer to the cost of dining out as compared to other Italian cities, but it might.

Fortunately, while the bill may be higher in Milan than it would be in Rome, you’re not likely to feel cheated. Milan diners demand the most unctuous risotto, the freshest of fish, and the most tender cuts of meat.

And they are prepared to pay for it, around €165 per person at Michelin two-star restaurants like Cracco (www.ristorantecracco.it) near the Duomo or at Trussardi alla Scala (www.trussardiallascala.com) in the 19th century Palazzo Trussardi on the Piazza alla Scala.

Diners at more modest restaurants, such as the small family-run Ristorante Papa Francesco, a very short walk away from Trussardi, at Via Marino 7, also expect value for money. The bill here may be less than €50, but there are seasonal specialities and the bread is fresh from the oven. www.papafrancesco.com.

Milan does offer one outright bargain in food. It’s called ‘Happy Hour,’ and in this city the hour stretches from 18:00 to 21:30. For the price of one drink, roughly €9, customers may help themselves to as much as they want from a buffet typically featuring pasta, risotto, meat, cheese and salads. The Navigli area is the best bet for the widest choice of buffets and the trendiest Happy Hour atmosphere. The most popular drink is the Negroni, equal parts Campari, Vermouth and gin.

Learn to 'do it yourself'

If you have a few hours to spare in Milan, you can arrange a private cooking lesson at the School of Italian Cuisine. A three-hour lesson concludes with a tasting of the prepared dishes accompanied by wine. Learn to make pizza and focaccia, pasta and sauces, homemade pasta, risotto, meat dishes including the famous Milanese cutlet, or Italian sweets. The school is very flexible about meeting your requirements, either for the timing of the class or the recipes covered. For one or two students the price is €360 per person; for three to six students, it’s €220 each. Book at least two weeks in advance by sending an outline of your requirements by email to Sabrina Notarnicola at: snotarnicola@quadratumusa.com.

All aboard for dinner

If you’re feeling adventurous, book well ahead for a meal on a vintage tramcar with a decor reminiscent of the Orient Express. Operated by Milan's transit system, the ATM, the service is aptly named ATMosfera. The tram departs at 20:00 from a stop near the Castello and trundles along for two and a half hours including a 10-minute halt for a smoking break. The route passes by many of the key sites of the city some of which you may see, some which you may not depending on how quickly dark descends.

The atmosphere on board when I was there was very like a party, with delighted Milanese entering fully into the off-the-wall experience. A friend and I were the only tourists in our tram (there are two trams, each seating 24 people.). The difficulty of booking may account for the lack of out-of-towners. After trying in vain via email, I contacted the hotel where I would be staying in Milan, and the concierge succeeded by phone. Fixed five-course menus are served, fish-based, meat-based or vegetarian, and you must stipulate at the time of booking which you want. Payment (€65 which includes wine and water) is made on board after dinner. The meals are of a very high standard and may include delicacies like baby squid and black rice, or duck lasagne.

Reserve at least two weeks in advance, much longer for weekends and busy periods like Fashion Week. The toll-free number from Italy: 800-80.81.81 or email atmosfera@p2000.it. For a response, it is essential to include the following: your full name, choice of menu, date required, plus your mobile telephone number. For more details, visit: www.atm.it and click on “restaurant tram.â€

Dining near the congress hall In light of the many congresses being held at the Fiera Milano, I asked Fabrizio Conte, the Fiera’s Marketing Manager, to share his list of recommended restaurants in the area. Here’s his list:

Ristorante Ribot
www.ristoranteribotmilano.it
Via Marco Cremosano, 41 - 20148 Milano
T +39 02 33001646
Italian traditional cuisine

Guerrini
www.ristoranteguerrinimilano.com
Via Gaetano Previati, 21 – 20149 Milano
T +39 02 43416105
Refined cuisine

Alfredo Gran San Bernardo
www.alfredogransanbernardo.com
Via G. A. Borgese, 14 (Zona Sempione) - 20154 Milano
T +39 02 3319000
Typical Milanese cuisine

Osteria Primonovecento
http://www.primonovecento.it/storia.html
Via Ruggero di Lauria, 17 (Zona Sempione) - 20149 Milano -
T +39 02 33611643
Refined cuisine in the local early 20th century style

Il Sambuco (Hotel Hermitage)
www.ilsambuco.it
Via Messina, 10 (Zona Paolo Sarpi) - 20154 Milano
T - +39 02 33610333
Famous fish restaurant. On Monday, when the fish market is closed, the restaurant features select cuts of meat.

Bringing it home Peck

is a legendary delicatessen located not far from its sister establishment, Ristorante Cracco, in the Duomo area. Choose from a treasure trove of delicacies. Peck will even ship your purchases home. Peck’s tearoom serves morning coffee, light lunch, and cocktails. (Booking is advisable for lunch. Telephone: 02 802 3161.) Open Monday 15:30- 19:30, Tues-Sat 09:15 to 19:30. Via Spadari 9. Website: www.peck.it.