SIX THINGS TO DO IN LJUBLJANA

Scout for souvenirs

On Sunday morning check out the flea market along the river where you are sure to find if not a treasure, then something that will be a great souvenir. Browse medals and memorabilia, antiques and art, jewellery and junk. When I was there in February, stalls ran for a block or two beginning at St Jacob's Bridge. Market is open from 8am until 2pm.

Catch up on history

The National Museum of Contemporary History, housed in the baroque Cekin Mansion in Tivoli Park, tells the story of the most turbulent period in Slovenian history: personal experiences of WW2, post-war turmoil, socialism and the industrialisation of the former Yugoslavia. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday 10-18. http://www.muzej-nz.si Check out the exhibition ‘5,200 years of the wheel’ in the City Museum of Ljubljana (until 20 April 2014). The oldest set of wheels and axle in existence, now the museum’s prize artefact, was discovered in the marshes south of Ljubljana in 2002. The museum is housed in a Renaissance Palace and is open Tuesday-Sunday, 10-18. Thursday until 21:00. www.mgml.si. About 2,000 years ago, a Roman city called Emona existed where Ljubljana is now. A film at the City Museum illustrates the evolution of the city over the centuries. An open display on the ground floor reveals the archaeological artefacts found right under the museum building.

Explore Metelkova

It's not a long walk from the old town to this newly regenerated outskirt. The extraordinary Metelkova city was destined for destruction not long ago; the area was 'occupied' by artists and other ho defended it against demolition and successfully developed it into a conglomerate of galleries and clubs. The graffiti alone is worth a detour. A former military prison on the site, decommissioned when Slovenia gained its independence, was turned into the bright and colourful Hostel Celicia . (For an overview of 'what's on' in Metelkova's clubs and galleries, www.metelkovamesto.org

Take a boat ride

Enjoy an eye-level view of the refurbishment of the city’s river banks. From the 1930s, Ljubljana’s celebrated architect, Joze Plecnik, marked the river’s course with buildings, squares, canals, embankments and riverside parks. He always saw the development of the riverbanks as integral to the design of the city but war and politics ended his interventions. Recently, several bridges, parks, a pavilion, a floating pier and other improvements on the river banks were part of a project that embraced Plecnik’s dream. Carried out by coordinated teams of local professionals the project was joint winner of the European Urban Planing Prize 2012. Boat tours on the Ljubljanica river last about an hour. From January to April, tours are scheduled twice a day: 13:00 and 15:00. Tickets from the tourist board office at the Triple Bridge.

Do some wine tasting

Movia, which the New York Times called ‘the superstar producer of the Brda region’ has its own wine bar right next to the Ljubljana town hall. No better place to familiarise yourself with Slovenian wine.The Movia estate dates from 1700; its vineyards straddle the border with Italy. Vintages include the so-called orange wine, ribolla gialla which must stand upright for an extended period – a week is suggested – before being carefully decanted. The 2008 vintage was described by the New York Times critic as ‘complex and fruity with just a hint of funk”. Also recommended, the 2007 Veliko, a blend of ribolla gialla, sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio. http://www.movia.si

Fashion foray

Gallerija Emporium is an elegant Art Deco building off Preseren Square. Stocked with international designer fashions for men and women, its services include personal shoppers and made-to- measure options. Open 10:00 -21:00, Monday through Friday, 10:00-20:00 on Saturday and 11:00 -17:00 on Sunday. www.galerijaemporium.si Ljubljana designer Jelena Leskovar showcases an integrated wardrobe of simple, stylish dresses, coats and separates at Cliche at Novi Trg 6. A carefully curated selection of accessories from European, US and Japanese designers compliments them. The shop is open Monday to Friday 12:00-20:00, Saturdays and Sundays 10:00-14:00. Almira Sadar, an architect, is also a professor of fashion design at the Faculty o Textiles, Ljubljana. She established her own fashion studio in 1997. View her innovative collection online at: www.almiradadar.com and at her shop at Beethovnova 12. Open 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-14:00. Closed Sun.